Lappi Ruska: Why I fell in love with Lapland’s Autumn colours

Most people dream of visiting Finnish Lapland in winter – chasing the Northern Lights, meeting reindeer and experiencing the magic of a snow-covered wonderland. But when I visited during Lappi Ruska, I discovered a completely different side of Lapland. Honestly? I fell in love with it.

Lappi Ruska is what Finns call the short but spectacular autumn foliage season, when the landscapes transform into a blazing mix of reds, oranges and golden yellows. I’ve seen autumn colours before, but nothing prepared me for how incredible Lapland’s Ruska would be.

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The magic of Lappi Ruska

Everywhere I went, I was surrounded by golden birch trees glowing in the soft autumn light, red-tinted fells stretching to the horizon and misty mornings over mirror-like lakes. The best part? No crowds, just me and the wilderness.

My favourite places to experience Lappi Ruska

During my time in Finnish Lapland, I was completely mesmerised by the autumn colours that transformed the landscapes. These were the places that stood out the most – each one offering something truly special.

Ounasvaara Hill, Rovaniemi

I didn’t have to go far from Rovaniemi to experience Lappi Ruska in full swing. A short hike through Ounasvaara Hill gave me incredible views over the golden forests and the Kemijoki River. The mix of reds, oranges and yellows stretched as far as the eye could see. It was the perfect way to soak in the autumn beauty without venturing too far into the wilderness.

Oulanka National Park (Ruka-Kuusamo Region)

If there’s one place that completely blew me away, it was Oulanka National Park. Walking through the Karhunkierros Trail (Bear’s Trail) during Ruska felt like stepping into a dream. Every twist and turn of the river reflected the vibrant colours of the season. For photographers, it’s simply relentless – every bend in the trail offers something worth stopping for.

Korouoma Canyon, Posio

Korouoma Canyon is well-known for its frozen waterfalls in winter, but I was lucky enough to see it painted in stunning autumn colours. Walking along the trails, I was surrounded by towering cliffs with trees glowing in shades of gold, copper and crimson. The contrast between the rugged canyon walls and the soft autumn light made it one of the most memorable places I visited.

Around Immeljarvi Lake, Levi

This was one of those hidden gems that took my breath away. The reflections of golden birch trees on the still water were absolutely mesmerising. I found myself just standing there, taking it all in – the silence, the fresh autumn air and the sheer beauty of the landscape. It’s the kind of stillness that feels almost unreasonable – the sort of place you photograph compulsively and then put your camera away, because the photos aren’t enough.

Scenic drives through Lapland in Ruska season

One of the best surprises about visiting Lapland during Lappi Ruska was how stunning the drives were. Every road trip felt like a moving postcard, with incredible views around every bend.

Rovaniemi to Posio

This drive was nothing short of spectacular. The road weaved through forests in shades of gold and orange, with occasional lakes reflecting the colours like glass. I found myself pulling over multiple times just to take it all in. By the time I reached Posio (which was much later than expected), I was completely in awe of how magical Lapland looked in autumn.

Kemijärvi to Levi

This drive was another highlight of my Ruska road trip. The scenery shifted between rolling hills covered in autumn colours, peaceful lakes and open fells. At times, I felt like I was the only person on the road, surrounded by pure wilderness. It was the kind of drive that makes you pull over for no reason other than the fact that the light has just done something extraordinary and you need a moment to soak it all up.

Other amazing places to experience Ruska

While I personally haven’t visited these places yet, they are known to be some of the best spots to experience Lappi Ruska in full swing. They’re high on my list for future adventures!

Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park

Often considered one of the most stunning places in Finland during Ruska, Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park offers rolling fells covered in brilliant autumn colours. The panoramic views stretch for miles and the peaceful atmosphere in known to make it a favourite among hikers and nature lovers. It’s said that the air quality here is some of the cleanest in the world, making the experience even more refreshing.

Urho Kekkonen National Park (Saariselkä)

This vast national park is known for its untouched wilderness and dramatic fell landscapes. During Lappi Ruska, the scenery is stunning. The Kiilopää fell hike is especially popular for those wanting spectacular autumn views from above.

Pyhä-Luosto National Park

Famous for its deep gorges and rugged fell landscapes, Pyhä-Luosto National Park becomes even more spectacular during Ruska. The Isokuru Canyon hike is one of the park’s highlights and you can also head up to Lampivaara Amethyst Mine, where you can dig for gemstones while enjoying views of the autumn-painted wilderness.

Why I’d choose Lappi Ruska over winter (again!)

Don’t get me wrong – I love Lapland in winter, but there’s something really special about visiting in autumn. Here’s why I’d do it all over again:

• The colours are unreal – Seeing an entire landscape turn red, gold, and orange is something I’ll never forget.
• No crowds – Unlike winter, I had so many places to myself. Just me, nature and silence.
• Perfect hiking weather – Crisp, cool air, no snow and no mosquitoes – what more could you ask for?
• It’s a photographer’s dream – The mix of autumn colours, misty mornings and early Northern Lights made it the perfect season for photography.
• It’s budget-friendly – Flights and accommodation were cheaper than in peak winter, which was a nice bonus!

If you’ve only ever pictured Finnish Lapland in deep winter – frozen lakes, huskies, the full Arctic cliché – Ruska is the version of this place that most Australians haven’t found yet. Honestly, some of us are quite happy to keep it that way.